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Restaurants & Bars 11

Polla Campero

Paul Lukas | Aug 12, 2004 09:38 AM

Yesterday's NYTimes had a blurb from Florence Fabricant about Pollo Campero, the highly regarded Guatemalan fried chicken chain that's recently opened up branches in Corona, Queens, and Sunset Park, Brooklyn. I visited the Brooklyn outlet last night and am sorry to report that the chicken was unremarkable. Not bad, but certainly not special.

Fabricant described the chicken as "deeply burnished" (this is absolutely true), "moist beneath its crunch mantle" (somewhat true), and leaving "a spicy glow on the palate" (completely untrue). The lack of spiciness was particularly disappointing...

-- Paul

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