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Restaurants & Bars 5

Some places in Soho, London

limster | Nov 21, 200802:47 PM

• Melati
An Indonesian place, and could thus be using more kecap manis, a sweet dark sauce, especially in the lamb satay, which are at the point between tough and tender. The peanut dipping sauce isn't bad, rice and nutty, and not too much like peanut butter. The vegetable curry (perhaps a variant of sayoh lodeh) is ok, less emphasis on the traditional cabbage and beans, this one with cauliflower and broccoli that throws off the textural components a bit. The coconut milk based curry is fine, the right thinness and reasonably aromatic. Too bad they don't serve the various varieties of Indonesian rice, like nasi kuning (a yellow tumeric based rice).

• Mother Mash
A not bad pork and apple ssausage, a bit hard to catch teh apple, but it was rasonably porky and pink, with a ripping meaty interior. The onion gravy is a little starchy, rather than sticky with gelatin, but the savoury oniony flavour is a saving grace. Ok mash, nothing like the one at The White Horse in Parson's Green. A basic sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream that's quite nice.

• Mr Jerk
A moderate but mellow mutton curry with solidly tender chunks of meat and soft potato. Seriously hearty and hefty hard food, chewy dumpling, moderately soft plaintains, slightly fibrous and soft sweet potato and yam. I liked the gingery warmth against the tart sorrel of the ginger and sorrel drink.

• Jerk City
Great chicken patty, just the right hit of spice, very flaky shell, a good balance of meat and flour. Jerk chicken wasn't spectacular, but wasn't bad, reasonable smoky and charred bits from the grill, a heavy cloak of sauce with a spicy bite, and rice punctuated buy the al dente beans.

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