Restaurants & Bars

Two places in Holborn, London

limster | Feb 1, 201002:34 PM

• The Bountiful Cow
A beef themed pub. Loved the sephardic chopped chicken liver, seamlessly blended with aubergine, onions and eggs (according to menu), smooth in texture, livery but without the metallic edge, perhaps sweetened by the onions and aubergine and rounded by the eggs. A toasted slice of rustic bread along with the acidic and crisp counterpoint of gherkins, lettuce and onion.

The cheese burger is formidably sized, juicy, meaty with nicely ground meat (coarse enough for texture, fine enough to be tender), with very sparing additions of cheddar, tomato, onion, gherkins and lettuce, more a garnish than a side. The bun is decent, but made to appear small and inadequate by the burger. A worthy burger imho; probably the best I've had so far, even if it's not saying much -- love to hear a comparison with the hawkmoor burger (and am looking forward to trying it soon). Not bad chips.

• Fleet River Bakery
I liked the homey crust in the honest ricotta and mushroom quiche. Came with a trio of salads: beans and tomato (sauce); a broccoli, green pepper and bean sprouts with peanut and sesame dressing (the combination of every "Asian" flavour), a straightforward lettuce and rocket. Nothing arresting, but not bad. Loved the vanilla mascapone with the hummingbird cake (a tropical pineapple and banana cake, probably missing a couple of other ingredients). Admirable hot chocolate, made in a thin style, but still very flavoursome, an Audrey Hepburn of hot chocolates.

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