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Restaurants & Bars 5

Pizza for Melrose

Karl S. | Jul 30, 2005 08:39 AM

The Arlington za thread inspires this, which has been a topic from time to time on these boards for those of us living between Rtes 1 and 93 north of the city and south of Rte 128.

OK, for some time I have cast about for a replacement to Vittorio's, which closed earlier this year. I think I have found it.

Technically, it's in Saugus, but not too far from the Melrose line, and they deliver in Melrose:

Bacci's, near JPace and La Vita Mia.

The real stunner from this place was the calzone: I had my first calzone in Massachusetts in some 20 years that was made primarily with ricotta and less mozzarella; until this point, I have only found opposite to be the case, which is what I expect from a stromboli but not a calzone (perhaps growing up in the NY area formed my expectations): a calzone should be a thing of relative lightness.

Moreover, this place slices its meatballs for its pizza. Hurray! The only other place locally I have found that previously was at DiPietro's in Malden. Bacci's is even better in flavor, I think.

They also properly slice their sausage. Meatball sausage pizza is quite fine there.

And the sauce is, mercifully, not sweetened. (Please, please, never ever sweeten tomato sauce -- ugh!)

The crust could be a bit better flavored and textured, but it's pretty good. My housemate, who like Ernesto's pizza in the North End, actually thinks Bacci's crust is the next best he's ever had.

I wish they followed Vittorio's way with eggplant: slice it thin and let it char a bit -- don't bread it.

Now, if only we could get some really good Chinese in Melrose. At least the Super 88 is closer now.

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