I am long overdue in posting our final dining highlight in the Langhe during our visit in September. On a Thursday night, my wife and I drove from Barolo to Priocca to eat at the Michelin-starred Il Centro owned and operated by the Cordero family. This is our kind of Michelin dining--a family-run operation presenting the finest ingredients, masterfully and creatively prepared, and everything identifiably and authentically Piemontese. After our stuzzichini (my memory fails but looking at the picture it was a salumi and white bean puree), we ordered 3 antipasti: peperoni al forno farciti di tonno, acciughe e capperi, cestino di parmigiano con funghi porcini and, our favorite, the melazane tomino salsa verde. The melanzane tomino sounds so simple, but every ingredient on that plate was perfectly ripe and intensely flavored--particularly the roasted tomato. For our primi, I had the agnolotti della Domenica con ragu di fegatini (it wasn't Sunday, but who cares), and my wife had the Risotto alle erbe con filoni e animelle. For our wine that evening, we drank Elio Grasso's Barolo Ginestra Case Mate from the 2004 vintage, which was drinking beautifully and paired wonderfully with our secondi: Codone di vicciola (razza bovina piemontese allevata a nocciole) and Ganciale di manzo caramellate ai fichi. For our dolci, we shared a simple gelato al torrone con biscotto di noccile e pistacchi. It was the perfect meal--I could not suggest an improvement on anything we were served. My only constructive comment is that when you dine at Il Centro (and I strongly recommend you do), talk, have fun--something about the table spacing in the dining room causes diners to speak in hushed whispers. We felt like we were in church for awhile until an Italian diner took a call on his cell phone and began to loudly conduct business for about 10 minutes (hmm, on second thought . . .). As my friend Allende likes to say, go!