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Perdix: long time, no see


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Perdix: long time, no see

MC Slim JB | Aug 13, 2005 12:53 AM

We realize that it has been over a year, perhaps close to two since we have last visited Perdix, a shame since it's right down the block. I suspect we kept getting deterred by the heavy emphasis on grilled fish, which is off my companion's list.

With a reservation, we get seated in the still-lovely greenhouse room in the back, though the sight of a few folks (staffers? tenants?) hanging out, pulling on beers and smoking in the garden somewhat subtracts from the view.

It is late-ish, but we are still disappointed to learn that the chicken combo entree (some pulled, some on the bone) is sold out. The somewhat testy, unfriendly initial posture of the service doesn't make this revelation go down any smoother. We understand: small places run out of things; no need to get defensive about it!

The high quality of our second-choice orders makes us feel a lot better: a really extraordinary flaky tart stuffed with cheese, made sublime by a garlic-heavy sauce of great oil and stunning fresh herb flavors. It's perhaps the best pesto sauce we've ever sampled.

The chicken stuffed ravioli is far more flavorful than its appearance suggests. Another small winner.

A special of hanger steak is done in a Southwesternish style, with a chili and cumin based dry rub, slightly underdone on the grill, and sitting on a puddle of outstanding sweet corn, black beans, and barely pureed avocado. Steak frites by way of Taos, original and delicious, and only $26.

We find a bottle of red at the low end of the list, maybe $36 for a Chinon, very pleasant. $80 for two, plus tip. Service gets a lot friendler as the evening goes on, which always strikes me as a naive ploy, but overall we're so pleased with the food that we can let this slide. We'll come back soon, probably earlier in the evening to avoid sell-outs.

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