We just got home from dinner at the new restaurant, Perbacco. It's at 230 California St. between Front and Battery (next to Tadich, two doors from Aqua).
We ordered the Salumi Misti which consisted of house-made finocchiona, Salmae al barbera, coppa piccante and ciccioli (pork pate) as well as imported mortadella di bologna and prosciutto di san daniele. It was cured meat heaven. The house-made salumi had a softer, more lush texture than any I've had, and the flavors were amazing. I've never tasted finocchioni that had such a lovely fennel flavor, not overwhelming but a perfect accent. I will make a trip here just to have a glass of wine and the salumi plate over and over again.
The most ordinary thing we ordered was a beet salad garnished with crumbled castelmagno and ruccola. It was perfect, but just the simple thing described. Compared to everything else, perfect just wasn't exciting.
The pastas were transcendent. We had agnolotti dal plin: squares of house-made pasta filled with roasted veal in a simple butter sauce with braised cabbage and garnished with grated parm. The pasta had perfect texture, and the richness of the veal filling was balanced with the cabbage on the plate. The other pasta we shared consited of ravioli filled with red chard and ricotta in another simple butter sauce wtih crushed walnuts. The balance was unreal with flavors of chard melting with walnuts and ricotta wrapped in (again!) perfect pasta.
We were so satisfied that we skipped dessert in favor of a cheese course that consisted of a couple of big hunks of well aged parmesan and castelmagno (we had plenty of red wine left to finish). The cheeses were served with chesnut flower honey (delicious, if not a match with the wine), marcona almonds and local moscato grapes.
Honestly, the only regret that I had was that we didn't walk in with bigger appetites. I LOVE Delfina, but right now feel like I could forget all about it and not regret.
Go to Perbacco now. Talk to the sommelier, Mauro, about wine. Order as much as you can. Salute!
230 California St.
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