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Pearl Oyster Bar report


Restaurants & Bars 19

Pearl Oyster Bar report

Skillet Licker | May 15, 2007 07:37 PM

Finally went - for lunch - and found the vibe pretty relaxed and neighborly, although by 1:00 the place was hopping.

Upon the suggestion of the waitress, I started with the fried oysters. Now, I'm not a fan of fried oysters - I prefer them in their pristine condition. But these were good, served in their open shells, in a dollop of tarter sauce. Crispy on the out, meaty on the in.

Of course I had to try the lobster roll. It is "market price". Today a lobster roll was $23. It was fantastic, the best one I've had in NYC (my previous favorite was at Fresh), and leagues better than the one at Mary's Fish Camp which I found tasteless. Plump and ample chunks and shreds of fresh lobster in a kind of over-sized weiner bun, with just the right amount of flavorful dressing. Perfection.

The downside was the shoestring fries. Truth be told, I hate shoestrings - too little potato flavor or texture - so maybe I'm not the best person to pronounce judgment on Pearl's'. But I hated them. Fries belong with burgers (which need them), not with magnificent lobster rolls (which don't). I like the way they do it at Fresh, where they serve a crispy and peppery watercress salad with the lobster roll: now that is elegant!

Chablis was the perfect accompaniment to the oysters and lobster.

Finished with an excellent strawberry-rhubarb pie topped with vanilla ice cream, and a respectable cup of regular coffee (their only kind).

Overall: can't wait to return.

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