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PDX : Risky Pizza Question

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PDX : Risky Pizza Question

pizza_girl_ct | Mar 16, 2005 08:49 PM

After reading through recent posts, I fear I may get chased off the board for Apizza Scholls sacrilege, but...

Has anybody tried Sellwood Public House for pizza? I have not, but it has piqued my interest. I have friends who recommend it highly, but they are West Coast natives, so I don't know if I trust them on pizza-related matters.

Now, I've been to Apizza Scholls. A couple of times. It's very good. Brian, Rodney, and Co. are turning out superlative food, from a foodie point of view. Technically, they're doing everything right in terms of ingredients and preparation and freshness and all, and the service is so friendly and competent (especially for Hawthorne!).

BUT. It's just not the comforting East Coast style pizza joint I'm missin. It comes down to attitude and presentation. Scholls seems to be taking pizza up a notch, turning it into something, I dunno, "transcendent". Their pies just taste very cerebral to me, very thought-out, almost like too much effort has been put into it. What I want is casual pizza, something that doesn't need to feel like an event - on the East Coast, pizza isn't an event, it just IS. I guess what it comes down to is I want to be able to grab a slice. A GOOD slice.

Sellwood offers slices of all their pies. It's also a thicker-crust (but still NY) style. (Scholls pizza is a bit thinner-crusted than my preference - I like a powerful bread presence, since I am of the opinion that, in its heart and soul, pizza is really bread, everything else is accoutrement.) I'm told they do a margherita, plus all those crazy gourmet things full of pineapple and artichoke hearts. But it seems they might offer what, to me, would be a more genuine American pizza-eating experience.

The Slice is such an essential element of pizza-eating in America, it frustrates me that Scholls offers personal size pies instead - which feels too much like ordering lunch at Wildwood (and I enjoy WW's flatbreads, just don't really think of them as pizzas...). But I guess Scholls is essentially trying to take pizza back even farther than its NY roots, all the way back to Naples, really. So it's not quite right to say they're offering "authentic East Coast pizza", because it definitely doesn't feel like the pizzas I ate growing up, even if it is "better" from a "gourmet" perspective.

Sorry to be long-winded. I'd really like to know others' thoughts, especially other East Coast transplants. And I'd love to hear from anyone who's tried Sellwood Public House.

No ill will toward Scholls, really, just a naughty boat-rocking tendency, I guess!

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