I'm going to Paris for the first time in a week. We're staying in the 4th arrondissment, and I'd love some personal opinions to go along with all of the travel guide recommendations I've been reading. So: Big name places we'll still be able to get into (at this late date)? Inexpensive bistros/brasseries? Good chow at family-run places? And, importantly, is it passé to worry about eating beef? You never hear about it anymore--is the "mad cow" scare over? Any help is greatly appreciated.