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The second part of my report on my 4 day whirlwind eating and drinking extravaganza in Paris.
BLE SUCRE -- Stopped here for croissants and coffee. Enormous and very, very very good croissants. Super buttery. The three of us got chocolate, plain, an apple chausseur, and an almond to share. The almond was my fave. Quite the line in the AM but we managed to grab a table outside. They've got some beautiful patisserie, which I unfortunately did not try.
JEANNE B -- Stopped for a late lunch after walking through Batignoles and Montmartre/Sacre Coeur. Truly lovely place on Rue Lepic. They offer an option of 2 or 3 courses at lunch. We (3 of us) got 2 courses, I think 19 Euro each. Starters -- spicy and delicious gazpacho, smoked salmon, and rabbit terrine with nuts. All very, very good. Mains - rotisserie chicken served with potatoes and salad for my mom and sister, and for me, an an open faced lobster salad sandwich. They though the roast chicken was simple and well prepared. I thought my lobster sandwich was lovely, albeit too much food for me! The Wim beer with it was the perfect match. The proprietors were very nice. The room was pretty and even a little funky. The desserts looked good. If only I had had the room......
JOSEPHINE CHEZ DUMONET - This pick for dinner was pure nostalgia. My mom ate here 32 years earlier with my sister and wanted to go back. Plus, I was all in for one true Parisian Bistro experience. It did not disappoint. The room, as others have written, is a little worn, and it was chock full of Americans (like us). But these factors didn't detract (especially after the first glass of wine). We started with the smoked salmon and the terrine. Enormous portion of salmon. The terrine with cornichons exactly what I would have expected - which is to say...an excellent traditional representation of the dish. Both my mom and I got the confit duck as the main event. I had read somewhere it was the best in town, and it is one of my favorite things in the world. And it did not disappoint. The roast potatoes on the side were perfectly well done as well. For dessert, a tart of pistachio cream and strawberries. Lovely. Then our very nice table neighbors insisted we try a bit of their millefuille (a GIGANTIC portion). Nutty crisp pastry. Not overly sweet cream. Spectacular. Get it when you go. We drank a great Pomerol that was I thought was something special albeit not terribly expensive. Then, when I got home I found out it was 12 Euro at Carrefour. Oh well.
BOULINGERIE POLAINE - I picked up some croissants for the road as we were heading out on a boat ride down the Canal Saint Martin. They were pretty good. But the bread, for which Polaine really is known, was far better.
LE SEVIGNE - We thought we'd grab a light lunch and, on the recommendation of a nearby shop owner, went here in search of salads and omelettes. Success! Though I wanted a salade lyonnaise, they didn't have one. Instead, I got a lovely plate of ham, salad, and tomatoes, so close enough. :) And for my mom, precisely the omelette she wanted. Gruyere, mushrooms....The place isn't a destination in itself, but as it looks out on the park and serves a solid lunch, I recommend for a stop if you're in the neighborhood. A mix of locals and tourists. Very good service.
EDWART CHOCOLATIER - I'm not a huge chocolate person but one of my best friends is. So I stopped in and bought presents. The chocolatier, Edwin Yansané, was there. And he is a treat! What a super nice guy! Plenty of freebie tastes and the chocolate is so good and the combinations so interesting that even I ate tons of chocolate. And I think my friend will be happy with her souvenir.
LA CONDESA - OMG OMG OMG. I am an admitted food girl. I've lived in NYC most of my life and I also am somewhat cynical and jaded. But THIS. THIS was a MEAL to make one LOVE LIFE. I was in Paris for my 50th birthday and this was a meal that made me want to get OLDER. Older just so I can see what happens with chef Indra Carrillo in the future. Because he and his team are going places. But before I even get to the food, let me say add some raves about his team, as the chef wasn't on site while we were there and the chef running the show that evening, whose name I regrettably didn't catch, is deserving of recognition for marvelously executing the vision! And the two guys doing front of house - adorable and funny and warm. With only 24 chairs, it was like dining at a new friend's house. A new friend with impeccable taste and interesting friends. I don't have pictures of every dish because we did the wine pairing and a few courses in, I was blitzed and enjoying myself far too much. The meal was like eating spring. Loads of veg prepared interesting ways. Especially lots of green (radish tops....peas...asparagus....) The 6 course tasting ran from pumpkin seed crackers to tempura of asparagus (check out the presentation in my pics!) to cod with fresh and split peas (my favorite dish of the night) to desserts of chocolate cake with sourdough cream and strawberries with chili jam and yogurt. The only thing that had me scratching my head was that other tables seemed to get duck served with a not-mole-but-sorta-like-mole sauce, whereas my mom and I got chicken. Really good, super tender "old hen" chicken. But not duck. It tasted great and I was happy and didn't make a fuss, but were I to go back sober, I'd ask why. Anyway, at 78 EUR pp (wine as well as champagne added more) , it was a great value.
in NYC, the food easily couldn't gone for $150+ pp. I'll add that the wine pairing was well worth it. Particularly liked the Syrah and the Pineau they served. And we had table neighbors who also were Americans who were such great fun that we exchanged contact info at the end. Sadly, dinner involved a long discussion about Anthony Bourdain, who had influenced and inspired us all, and our travels. The lesson.......Go here. Don't wait. Connect with people where you can. Life is short.
We grabbed takeout ham sandwiches for our flight home from CARTON . And we got some quiche lorraine for a late breakfast at PAUL as we needed something to counterbalance our hangovers from the night before. All were fine. None spectacular.
I have no complaints. I ate very very very very well on this little trip to Paris.
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