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My husband and I just got back from a wonderful week in Paris. The guidance I received on CH was as always invaluable. Here is the rundown of where we ate:
La Condesa - Lunch
This is run by the Mexican chef Indra Carillo, who used to work at Pujol in Mexico City (See my Mexico City post from 2015 with a report on Pujol). Lunch with John Talbott and his wife was spectacular, starting with a crisp corn galette with goat cheese, and amuse-bouche of mushroom tempura with sorrel sauce. I don’t have all the details, but from memory the dishes we had included tomatoes with tomato ice cream, cream and crumbled something, squid ink tagliolini with shreds of yellow and green squash and strips of squid in a spiced broth, plaice topped with a spiced sauce, Pyrenees lamb with tomato coulis and eggplant puree, figs with creme anglaise, Mexican spices with ice cream. A red wine from the l’Herault region was quite good. The 3-course lunch menu is 38 euros. With 2 bottles of wine, water and coffees for 4, the total was 240 euros.
Zebulon - Dinner
The 3-course dinner menu is 49 euros, with small supplements on a few dishes. Some of the dishes we had were marinated sea bass, marinated beef, bonito with bok choy and shallots with an Asian-style vinaigrette, lamb rib with shoulder confit, lemon tarte, and orange flower mousse with chocolate sorbet, topped with a chocolate wafer. With a bottle of a Languedoc red, the bill for 4 was 232 euros. Note that service is very slow. Allow 3 hours for dinner here.
Quarant et Un - Lunch
We were going to the Musee Marmottan in the 16th and wanted a simple lunch nearby, so I found this in Michelin, with a Bib Gourmand. Recommended if you are in the neighborhood. Stanley had veal scallopine Milanese topped with salad and parmesan, and I had the “fameux” Boudin Basque, with baked apple, mashed potatoes and salad. With a bottle of “vin de France”, which was pretty good, and coffee, the bill was 65 euros.
Le Desnoyez - Dinner
Saturday night in Paris offers a limited choice of restaurants that are open and not expensive. Le Desnoyez served the purpose well. The menu is very limited, and changes regularly, but we were very happy with the choices. Stanley began with oeuf mayonnaise, a variation that included black bean sauce, while I had ris de veau with lemon and capers. My main course was rascasse (scorpion fish) with mussels, squid, and vegetables, all in a nicely spiced broth. His was duck breast with braised cabbage. The food here is simply prepared, no fancy plating, but it is deeply flavorful. With a bottle of Cahors (25 euros) the bill came to 95.
Coretta - Lunch
Beatriz Gonzalez, originally from Mexico, is the chef/owner of Neva Cuisine, and this is her more recent venture.
The dishes are very creative and beautifully presented, similar to La Condesa in that regard. Stanley and Bertrand started with the grilled squid. Ana and I had the langoustines. For the mains, Ana and Bertrand had the fish of the day, cod, Stanley had the wild boar, and I had quail. For dessert I had the baba, Stanley the pan di Spagna, Ana the brioche, and Bertrand the blanc manger. I got tastes of most and everything worked perfectly. With one bottle of Costiere de Nimes and coffees for all, the total was 219 euros.
Chez Michel - Dinner
I had chosen Chez Michel despite the fact that it is very traditional, which is usually not our preference, because I had a feeling they might have some game dishes. We were happy to find that they did, and also that the quality of everything we had was top-notch.
After they brought out a plate of periwinkles with a mayonnaise for dipping, Stanley started with fish soup, which came as a bowl of shaved parmesan and slices of spicy sausage, with a large pitcher of soup to be poured over. I had chopped crab mixed with mayonnaise. The main courses were what really excited us. I had grouse, which I have found on a menu only about a half dozen times in my life, either in England or France. This one was served with foie gras and girolle mushrooms and was cooked perfectly medium rare. It carried a supplement of 12 euros on the 38 euro menu, but was worth every penny. Stanley had partridge, also with foie gras, which had an 8 euro supplement. It was wonderful too. For dessert we had a Paris-Brest and riz au lait, both classics done well. With wine, the bill was 124.
Fulgurances - Lunch
This is unusual in that they don’t have a regular chef but instead bring in young guest chefs from all over the world, each staying for a few months. The current one is Mariana Villegas, originally from Mexico, who has worked for Danny Meyer in New York, then at Pujol in Mexico City and Cosme in New York. Though less creative than I was anticipating, the food was very tasty, the ingredients were first-rate and for 25 euros for 3 courses at lunch, it’s an unbeatable value. Choices are limited to 2 appetizers 2 mains and one dessert. Stanley had a lettuce wedge with coppa (cured pork neck), figs and avocado, and hanger steak with red beans, avocado and a chili sauce. I had a salad of mixed heirloom tomatoes on a puree of smoked eggplant, followed by grilled fish, listed on the menu as mulot noir (I could not find a translation) in a broth with grilled bok choy and very thin sliced potatoes. The dessert was an interpretation of tres leches cake, a brioche topped with a dome of whipped cream mixed with mascarpone. They were out of the Cahors I ordered, and substituted a wine that was not as good, for 28 euros. Total with coffee was 85.
Le Radis Beurre - Dinner
This is perhaps our favorite Paris restaurant, which we have been to twice before (See my posts from 2016 and 2017). The food is wonderful and a bargain at 35 euros for 3 courses (same price at lunch and dinner). As in the past, I started with pig’s feet, while Stanley had a country pate en croute, served with cornichons and jars of pickled vegetables. Salad is also served alongside this course. I then had rable de lievre (saddle of hare), which had a supplement of 10 euros, again satisfying my craving for game. Stanley had the superb tete de veau. For dessert, Stanley had baba au rhum (3 euro supplement) and I had riz au lait with salted caramel sauce. I prefer this version to the one at Chez Michel, but that is just my taste. We had a wonderful bottle of Cote du Roussillon for 39 euros.
L'Arcane - Lunch
For our last meal before heading to the airport, we treated Ana and Bertrand to lunch at L’Arcane, a Michelin starred restaurant in Montmartre which offers a 3-course lunch menu for 49 euros.
It is really more like 5 courses as the amuse-bouche and pre-dessert are substantial. There are no choices, but they do inquire about food allergies. So, here is a fairly detailed description of the dishes as I remember them:
Amuse – Salade niçoise – fresh tuna, anchovy, tomato, quail egg, olive, crouton
Entrée – 3 scallops in Champagne sauce, topped with chopped nuts in vinegar. I am not a big fan of cooked scallops (love them raw and marinated) as I find them a bit too sweet and cloying, but the sourness of the nut topping offset that beautifully.
Quail – Stuffed breast, legs, mushroom fricassee, dab of potato puree topped with a braised shallot.
Pre-dessert – Pistachio panna cotta – Topped with toasted pistachios and a sorbet of spinach, parsley and lemon.
Dessert – Red berry sorbet in a white chocolate/raspberry shell, on a cream base sprinkled with berries and meringue chips.
With one bottle of wine and coffee, the bill was about 245 euros.
For a complete report with photos and tourism information see my blog post:
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