Restaurants & Bars 27

Paris report Mar 12

AGM_Cape_Cod | Apr 11, 201205:12 PM

Restaurants in Paris:
Saturday Dinner-
8 rue Descartes, 75005
Metro-Cardinal Lemoine (10)
Closed Saturday lunch, closed Monday
Our first night I found a place we could walk to figuring we would be tired and cranky. Christophe was a very good first night option. When we arrived the restaurant was almost totally taken up with a long table for a party of 12. It made our service a little more relaxed but it was obvious that they had started at least an hour before we arrived.

DH ordered a bottle of Alsatian cremant to start. He tasted it and he said ‘non’ & that it was corked. I was surprised as was the waiter. He sniffed and looked at DH questioningly and DH shook his head. The bottle was taken away and DH could see the waiter and someone else tasting it. The waiter returned with a fresh bottle and said that it was fine in the nose but not in the mouth. DH felt that he made points.

For first courses we ordered haricot vert with lardon and wild escargot. The escargot was wonderful but the haricot vert themselves were slightly overcooked for our taste. Also the lardon arrived in the form of about 4 sliced of cooked bacon which made it hard to eat with the green beans.

For our plats we order ris de veau with a potato puree and a duck breast and confit. Both were very good. We had a half bottle of Pinot Noir with these. Desserts were a roasted pineapple with caramel for me and coffee ice cream for DH. I love roasted pineapple and caramel and this was a very good version. The tab was 147€ with the wines coming to 61€.

Monday Dinner-
Neva Cuisine
2 rue de Berne, 75008
Metro-Europe (3) or Liège (13)

This was the GTG dinner which has been reported on by many others. We enjoyed it and would go back again.

Tuesday Lunch-
Au Passage
1bis passage de Saint-Sebastien, 75011
Metro-Saint-Sebastien Froissart (8)

We really enjoyed this lunch with friends. The trout cerviche was very good with horseradish, watercress, flax seed and toasted bread crumbs. As is usual with us we ordered one of each of the plats-merlu (hake) and magret rose. They both came with the same sides of pureed cauliflower and a rainbow of beets. The cheese course was a goat cheese of several varieties. The chocolate ganache came with caramel and sea salt and was out of this world. I think our share of the bill was around 50€ but I am not sure.

A week later- Tuesday lunch
Le Comptoir
9 Carrefour de l'Odeon
Metro-Odeon (4&10)

We hadn’t planned on having lunch today but we never got breakfast before we got onto the train from Brive. So after we check into the hotel we went down and scored a table in the sun. We ordered one of the entrée specials which were Coquilles St Jacques with seaweed butter and an artichoke soup with tapioca pearls and foie gras. We split a Salade Niçoise which was wonderful. We had two glasses of a Bouzeron and one glass of Pineau de Charente. With a café the tab came to 70.20€ with 23.20€ attributable to the wines.

Tuesday Dinner-
Le Bistro des Gastronomes
10 rue Cardinal Lemoine, 75005
Metro-Cardinal Lemoine (10)

We met friends for dinner at Le Bistro des Gastronomes. It was a wonderful festive evening. We started with aperitifs which were served with olives and saucisson. We order telline clams with tomato and chorizo and sautéed foie gras with watercress for our entrees. The clams were good but a little over cooked but the sauce was wonderful. The foie gras was also good.

For our plats we ordered pork tenderloin which came on a bed of potatoes and carrots which had been mashed together and a bavette with potatoes and mushrooms. Both were very good. We had a bottle of Langedoc wine- Chateau de la Negly, La Falaise which was a perfect match for the food.

At this point the bartender/host brought us a entremet of Calvados and apple sorbet. It was good but potent. Desserts were a tarte tatin with the same apple sorbet and the dessert of the trip which was a crumble of strawberries with basil and strawberry sorbet. This dessert was wonderful!! DH and one of our friends had Armagnac. Our share of the bill was 94€.

Wednesday Dinner-

Le Comptoir
9 Carrefour de l'Odeon
Metro-Odeon (4&10)

There were six of us for dinner at Le Comptoir. We all started with Kir Royales which were served with Gougeres. The first course was a soft poached egg on a bed of mushroom duxelles with a foie gras foam. It was very good and I don’t care for runny yolk eggs.
The second course was a ‘Féra du lac léman’ which we were told was a lake salmon. It had been sautéed and served with a cress and tamarind sauce. It was wonderful.
The plat was veal with braised endive and a parsley mousse. It was good but not as good as the preceding courses.
The cheese course was wonderful as usual but they didn’t bring us any quince paste. I didn’t notice until we were almost done with the cheese.
Dessert was a grapefruit dish with a Campari jelly and a buttermilk ice cream.
We had two bottles of wine- one a Saumur and the other a Jurancon. The Juancon was a new wine for me and excellent with the cheeses.
After Armagnac for those who are aficionados we stagger home up three flights. The menu is a pre fixe at 55€.

Thursday Lunch-
Chez L'Ami Jean
27 Rue Malar 75007 Paris, France
Bus Ligne 63

Our final meal in Paris was at an old favorite, Chez L’Ami Jean. We have been there twice-once for dinner and once for lunch and prefer the lunch service. Dinner would be great with more than just two since is it so frenetic. Lunch is more relaxing and it was very empty when we were there on a Thursday.

We started with glasses of wine- I remember mine was a Pouilly Fuisse which I love. The entrees were spectacular. One was an asparagus dish with wonderful perfectly cooked asparagus and lardons. This was what the haricot vert dish should have been! The other was scallops with squid, we don’t remember the details of except that there were crunchy things that added to the whole dish.

For plats I had ris de veau which was amazing. It was on a bed of little mushrooms. DH ordered a shoulder of lamb which I was surprised at since it didn’t see that it would come rare which is how he likes his lamb. These were two shoulder chops which came pink and perfect. With this we had a half bottle of Irouleguy Bran which we had never had before. I have heard of the wine but never tried it. It complimented the plats perfectly.

Every once in a while you learn something new about your spouse or significant other. I never knew that DH liked rice pudding which of course at Chez L’Ami Jean is the best version around. I had another wonderful version of roasted pineapple with caramel. DH finished with an Armagnac and we paid the bill which was 185.50€. The ris de veau was very expensive but worth every bite!! The wines and Armagnac made up 52€ of the tab. Sometimes you have a meal and the bill comes and you think to yourself was it really worth that amount of money? No question with this meal! And a perfect end to two weeks in France.

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