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Paris Les Ambassadeurs

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Restaurants & Bars 2

Paris Les Ambassadeurs

Tom | Jun 6, 2006 03:42 PM

I recently posted a comment that reservations do not seem necessary now at the 2 star restaurants in Paris for lunch and most have a 70 to 80 euro prix fixe lunch menu. This was confirmed again today at Les Ambassadeurs in the Crillon Hotel. There were 25 people for lunch service and 5 empty tables.
However, I must caution that the menu was changed this morning after I had the conceirge confirm last night that the menu today would be the same as that which was faxed to us on Friday. The chef was moved by the "market fresh" items don't you know. As there are only two choices for appetizer and entree, this makes it a bit of a gamble since the ala carte prices are 70 euros apiece.
The "amuse bouche" was their salute to Spring. Foie Gras and crayfish in an egg foam; liquid of green pea in a crust; lemonade; ham and cheese soufflé in a "cigar" crust and truffle butter with toasted baguette. The appetizer was seared foie gras with cherry and almond with a cherry bouillon and a foie gras terrine with cherry icing. One entree was a disaster. It was supposed to be spaghetti carbonara, but the chef had "deconstructed" it. This a favorite gimmick of some chefs these days to take the ingredients of a classic dish and separate them instead of combining them in the classic recipe. This version was spaghetti wrapped around a chunk of cheese with slabs of pork belly on the plate. The whole challenge of getting a raw egg to blend with the hot spaghetti, parmesan cheese and crisp panchetta was lost in this mess. The dish was not improved by the pig's snout salad accompanying it.
The other entree was somewhat better. A piece of turbot with carrots on top in a carrot sauce with carrot mustard accompanied by a carrot puree. Do you see the theme of Bugs Bunny here. I could see my skin turning yellow with carotene as I ate the dish. These two entrees were a very disappointing disruption to an otherwise very good meal.
The vacheron of strawberries for desert was also deconstructed, with the meringue in the form of a cage.
The room is beautiful, service was efficient and the breads and trimmings were excellent. However, given the disappointing entrees, I question whether the experience was worth 70 euros apiece.
Tom

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