Restaurants & Bars

Paris Corsican Bistro, La Coulee d'Or

Maurice Naughton | Jun 18, 2002 09:22 PM

I've just got back from ten weeks in Paris and have only one review of any import. The restaurant's La Coulee d'Or. It's at the point where the rue Legraverend and the rue Abel meet with rue Parrot and avenue Daumesnil, across from the Viaduc d'Arts. It's cuisine is Corsican, rather rough-hewn and sturdy, and the ambiance is neighborhood bistro.

The chalkboard menu changes every day and the selections are varied, abundant, and cheap (formule at around 15 Euro for lunch). But my reasons for liking it thoroughly go beyond cheap: It's always crowded with locals who seem very happy, nobody is speaking English as their native tongue, the accueil is provided by a warm, hearty, cheerful host, and cabri roti is often featured on the board (roast chevre, in Corsican). I've looked for a goat restaurant in Paris for a long time, and perhaps discovering this one finally has colored my judgment, but for me it's a winner.

As some of you may know, I don't do haute cuisine, simply because I can't afford it (anyone who wants to take me to Jacques Cagna or Lucas Carton as his guest will be written into my will). I do cheap in my travels. And La Coulee d'Or's seafood salad, pate lapin, gigot d'Agneau with garlic, lots of garlic, fricassee of poulet fermier estragon, and capri roti with sauteed potatoes, though not haute are honnette, savoureux, et suffisant.

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