Sometimes it's easy to forget about the ol' stand-bys, the ones that rarely get much ink any more on this board. But it would be a mistake to take them for granted when, as in the case of Pizzeria Paradiso's Atomica pie, they're as good as ever -- one of the very best, and most *satisfying,* single items in the D.C. area.
Passing up the awfully tempting scallop/garlic/oregano/onion pizza special, I had an Atomica yesterday at the Georgetown location. It was as good as always, virtually flawless -- the tomatoes, salami, olives and mozz working a perfect harmony, with a just-right, wonderfully smokey crust. Of course, I've become a huge 2 Amys fan, mostly because it's the perfect neighborhood resturant and because it's constantly surprising with the little things, in addition to the pies. But if this day was any indication, Peter Pastan's original baby is running just fine under Ruth Gresser's careful watch -- and, as with Jim Zurer, I might prefer the Atomica to even the best Amys pie. Very heartening to see that not all good things come to an end, and that there are some folks out there unwilling to rest on their (quite profitable) laurels, which Gresser certainly could have done.
P.S. Whilst I was sitting at the bar, the pizza oven was cleaned down, after which the internal temperature dropped from 663 to 642 -- and at which point I noticed a few pizzas emerging slightly underdone. This (undercooking) is a very occasional problem at both PP and 2A -- if it happens to you, I recommend insisting upon an additional minute or two in the oven (for the pizza, of course).