Restaurants & Bars 6

Pan Asian at the Flying Tiger: A Chowdown Report (Vancouver)

fmed | Nov 20, 2009 09:17 AM

In a city of great "authentic" Asian food, I have to wonder why Pan Asian cuisine succeeds in Vancouver. Places like Wild Rice and our Chowdown target last night, Flying Tiger are perennially popular spots - particularly for non-Asians. I contend that most of the appeal is in the Western sensibilities in terms of service, amenities, cleanliness, etc. Asian restaurants, as a generalization, are often seen as less than desirable places to eat in terms of those criteria. But what about the food? I would characterize the food here as "approachable." If you are looking for authenticity, you will need to look elsewhere. However, if you are looking for a place that can fly you around Asia and serve classic dishes that are well prepared and well presented, then Flying Tiger is the place for you.

Last night powerhouse chef Tina Fineza prepared a sampling menu of some of the restaurant favourites to a dozen Chowhounds. We had a special guest - Calgary hound miss.foodie is still in town eating her way around Vancouver.

In order of appearance (I hope I get this correct) we had:

An Amuse of Tuna tartare (served on Chinese soup spoons and dressed with seasoned mayo)

Har Gao (well presented with perfect pleating - though I found the skin a bit undercooked)

Deep Fried Squid (served with a tart tamarind, lime, belachan and fish sauce -based dipping sauce)

Roti and Curry Dip (the roti was very croissant-like and tasting as if the used actual croissant dough - very buttery. The curry sauce that accompanied it was a bit sweet).

Green Beans (fried and dressed sweet soy -based glaze)

Black Cod (served with a green papaya slaw - with a tart lime dressing. This is my favourite dish tonight.)

Her famous Duck wrap (a sweet shredded duck filling served with flour peking duck wrappers and a nice selection of somewhat unusual Asian herbs like rice paddy herb, mints and basils - which added some nice fresh notes)

Penang Chicken curry (a coconut curry inspired by a true Pan-Asian dish originally from Malaysia. You will find Penang Curry all over SE Asia - but the Thai version is probably the best known. Again I found it a bit sweet.)

Overall, the experience was extremely positive. I left my "authenticity" hat at the door and imagined the restuarant as a fun place to eat Asian food. It is like a gastronomic theme park ride throughout Asia. This is also great place to introduce Asian and Southeast Asian food to novices because it's style highly approachable - with flavours adjusted to accommodate virginal palates.

Some very dark and fuzzy pics here: http://picasaweb.google.ca/gustibus.m...

Flying Tiger
2958 4th Ave W, Vancouver, BC V6K1R4, CA

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