Thank you 54, for the excellent recommendation.
The restaurant itself is kind of a generic hotel restaurant, (staff wear dowdy uniforms, lights are bright, heavily upholstered banquettes are covered in utilitarian fabric, green) but kind of on a salaryman rather than family scale (mirrors, gilt, outsized). I don't know how comfortable I would be eating in, but I may actually find out next week because I think that weirdly, it could be a good place for a parental lunch.
But based on 54's recommendation I phoned in an order of eun day goo jorim and galbi jorim (I was corrected: galbi jim). I never like to ask Korean or Japanese places not to include potato salad, first because I keep thinking this will be insulting, and second, because the last time I did this I received macaroni salad instead. So I didn't ask, and I did receive. Does anyone know why this is such a ubiquitous panchan staple? Other panchan: fried tofu, kim chee and tiny dried silver fish (I don't know what these are called), were all fine.
The black cod was pretty amazing. But it's turnips, which I love and which makes more culinary and cultural sense, not potatoes as 54 thought. Also shishito (I don't know this in Korean) which I don't remember having had in this dish before. Onions. Intense conversation between chiles and sesame. Pine nuts. One one hand I thought the fish was overpowered. On another I was moved to begin reconsidering what I expected of the dish. It is really a stew, but it's a very long way from boeuf bourgignon.
But it was the galbi that really blew me away. Like beef confit, and in broth.
Very good miso soup too. Odd but welcome.
Unfortunately they did not have a take away menu.