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goodfoodgal | Jun 23, 2003 08:53 PM

Just read someone's message below re Ouest, and being underwhelmed. Well!! I, for one, am overwhelmed by the four meals I've enjoyed there. But, one caveat--you must accept the fact that fat, in all its glorious forms, will play a role in delivering flavor. For instance, when you sit down, the ficelles which arrive warm and absolutely perfect, are accompanied by a bean puree with an olive oil float. Yesterday I ordered a signature salad of smoked sturgeon on frisee with lardons of bacon. To make matters worse, fat-wise, a soft boiled egg crowned the whole and with a fork puncture, its liquid became available to mix with the salad greens. Unctuous and brilliant, I say. For the main I went with a cioppino, a California boullabaise, which was relatively lean, but utterly first rate in freshness. We sampled a wide variety of dishes between the six of us, and no one was disappointed.

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