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Restaurants & Bars 5

The Original Pantry Paradox

TomSwift | Jun 20, 200303:55 PM

The only meal I will eat at the Pantry is breakfast, and then only when my dipstick shows that my body's low on oil. Had breakfast there this past Wednesday and placed the standard order: 3 eggs up easy, bacon, well done potatoes and well done sourdough toast. I received a complete disaster. The waiter apparantly ordered the bacon well done as well, as it was burned beyond all recognition. The potatoes had very little brown crispy crust. The toast, which is basically fried in oil on the big grill, didn't get enough oil and consequently wasn't very well done. The eggs were the killer. Normally Tony, the egg guy, breaks the eggs into a fry pan and lets them set, then slides them onto the big grill to finish cooking. When he slid the eggs onto the grill, however, the grill guy ran out of pancake batter and left to get reinforcements. He was gone too long and when he returned and finished resupplying the batter container, and then retrieved my eggs and plated them, they were fully cooked with 0% runny yellow.I picked at the meal, tipped Tony and the waiter, and left.

Today I thought I 'd try again. Same order, different waiter. The grill guy took a spatula of potatoes from the skillet and put them on the big grill, covered by a plate. Halfway through he removed the plate, flipped the potatoes, recovered them and weighted down the plate. The result was a heavenly mass of brown crispy potatoes with a creamy middle. The toast got a good dose of oil and also was weighted down, flipped and weighted again. This yielded 3 slices of golden crunchy sourdough with a hot chewy center. The bacon was far from burned and had a nice chewy texture (I prefer chewy to crunchy for my bacon). Tony set the eggs, slid onto the big grill and almost immediately plated them himself. The result was perfectly cooked whites and gallons of runny yolk. A delightful, albeit somewhat greasy, repast. But grease is a virtue. That's my major complaint about the Pantry - it's inconsistent.

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