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Restaurants & Bars 6

Omakase at Sushi Zo

judge dee | Nov 21, 2006 09:22 PM

I have not had sushi very often in the past few years. Aside from several visits to Tama and an unpleasant experience at Shibucho’s on Beverly (the sushi was very good), I have satisfied my cravings for Japanese food mostly with sashimi and cooked dishes at Asanebo’s.

With the board’s many praises for Sushi Zo and sensing that there has been changes in the sushi scene, I trekked out to Palms to experience sushi with a contemporary chef. Omakase at Sushi Zo reintroduced me to sushis that I have come to avoid and introduced me to new eats.

Over the years, I no longer order ikura, anago, ika, or mirugai. Ikura and anago were included in Sushi Zo’s omakase, and they are different from what I’ve experienced before. Keizo’s ikura both look and taste smoky, and his anago is charred at the edges with a moderate application of tsume. I was introduced to slices of baby yellowtail which are crunchy with a hint of the familiar hamachi taste. The blue crab temaki was too bulky – I prefer a cone shape to his cylinder – but the mix was delicious. I was surprised that his blue fin tuna comes from Europe.

I like his approach of serving singleton sushis – it’s clearly more work for him. I also appreciate his meticulous preparation and happily not modify his offerings: After all, this is omakase, where you’ve placed your trust in the chef. The only unreasonable request from him is that you eat his sushi in one bite. His ankimo or uni gunkanmaki is too large to devour in one bite.

It was an excellent experience for Mrs. Judge Dee and me. Thank you hounds.

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