No clambake, unfortunately, but some great meals. High points:
Lobster in the Rough, behind the Lobster Barn, in York. Unbelievably delicious fried clams -- best I've ever had. Perfect light batter, fresh, fresh clams, accompanied by fries. Fried haddock also excellent. Great selection of beers on tap as well. It's really casual -- eat at the bar or at picnic tables -- but I can't say enough good things about this place.
MC Perkins Cove for dinner. Appetizer: beautiful mussels (really light -- tomato/garlic/white wine). Inexplicably charred onion focaccia. Entree: haddock grilled on cedar (I chose the olive/sage hollandaise and delicious corn pudding). Dessert was a gigantic apple/blueberry turnover (light on the blueberrries) with a cider reduction and whipped cream, brought in from Arrows. Great meal at $120 for two with a bottle of Sancerre and worth every penny.
Barnacle Billy's in Perkins Cove. Lobster rolls for lunch. Salad-type, with celery and mayo mixed in, on a grilled roll (nice touch). Nice chunks of meat. Accompanied by potato chips. In my view, very solid but not competitive with ...
Two Lights Lobster Shack in Cape Elizabeth. Excellent lobster roll -- all meat, a blob of mayo on top. That's it. Unadorned and perfect (though I do prefer my roll grilled). Terrific onion rings. I thought the batter on the fried clams was a bit too heavy and greasy; Lobster in the Rough easily beats them on those.
Thanks to Chowhounders for recommendations. Can't wait to return!