Restaurants & Bars 8

Observations on Mama's and Gerrard's on Maui

Joebob | May 8, 201212:37 AM

Ate at Mama's Friday night. The amuse was an earthy double sip of soup. A tasty way to start, served with a nice little loaf of white bread. Both salads were good. but not exceptional: baby romaine and the fancy salad with dried cranberries, bacon, feta, etc. Both pieces of fish were exceptional; the best fish I've had since 3-Michelin-star dinners in France many years ago. Nothing innovative, just perfectly fresh and perfectly done. The deserts were good, but not memorable, as was the wine. Entrees about $50-60.

Ate at Gerrard's Saturday night. The amuse bouche was a little toast with green pepper something, parmesan shavings and a bit of Parma ham. OK, but not special. An appetizer of quennels in sorrel sauce had me furiously mopping the plate with slices of the OK bread. You could tell that Gerrard doesn't have the fishing fleet that Mama has. Only opakapaka was available, but we got it both ways it was offered: in a citrus, ginger cream sauce, apparently an old favorite recipe of the chef, and in a rich cream sauce with a fennel and onion reduction. Both were quite good, but a step down from Mama's. ($38 each entree.) Had a dessert of 3 sourbets, cooked rhubarb, and a coconut meringue cookie. Good, not great. However, I had a 2010 Sancerre that was fantastic; layers and layers of complexity. The boss really knows his Loire wines. And they offer a kama aina discount of 20% or so, making the second meal about half the price of the first. Both the meals were worth what was paid for them.

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