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NEPTUNE, w/ downhill trend of posts in mind--longish


Restaurants & Bars 6

NEPTUNE, w/ downhill trend of posts in mind--longish

tatamagouche | Jun 8, 2006 07:58 AM

Well, I've been a fan since it opened. Though I live nearby I haven't been able to get there for a couple months, but I went back last night, thinking I needed to give the place a good hard look (and taste) based on what seems to be a sudden slew of negative reports. Happy to say I'm still a fan.

I had the crudo and the cod cheeks, sweetie had what he usually has, the polenta nero, which looked and smelled as good as always, with plenty of octopus. Current crudo is yellowfin w/ barbecued eel, a small pile of onions and mixed greens--watercress, celery leaf, I think--and avocado sour cream. Cod cheeks are fried atop huge baked beans (like gigandes?) and sour cream w/ chunks of bacon.

Both dishes showcase what Nevins does best--juxtapose odd bedfellows of ingredients that shine especially once they start to get all mixed up. If they had dessert I bet he'd make cake soup.

A couple people were debating whether their differences were an objective quality issue or a subjective taste issue. As to the former, I've had only good to great meals here, so I haven't seen any downhill slide--but I could just be lucky, so no comment. As to the latter, I do think it helps to keep in mind David Nevins is a Todd English protege--so if you don't like the latter's brand of cooking, which tends toward the robust and maximalist--it's definitely not subtle/refined--you're probably not going to like Neptune.

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