Has "natural" wine taken over Paris?

Question

Hello all! I'm planning eleven nights of dining in Paris in March and after doing a fair amount of research on the restaurants I'm considering I am starting to think I'm going to find many wine lists composed of only or mostly natural wine. Let's just say from my, granted somewhat limited experience with it, I am not a big fan of natural wine. Are most bistronomie and "hip...ish" restaurants all leaning this way? I'll be alone so ordering reds by the glass. Thanks for any responses anyone can offer.

Best, wvdthree

Answer

What Jake said. 

Many, but not all, publish their wine lists on their websites. Even if they don't, if you look at photos on the websites, you sometimes can get an idea from the bottles in the pictures.

Many natural wine places now offer tastes before you accept the wine. Also, if you've ordered a bottle, don't hesitate to ask for a decanter ("carafe" in French) -- 4-5 minutes of airing can clean up many stinky wines (but others, alas, are beyond hope).

Answer

Well, natural wine in itself is not necessarily a bad thing. 

Natural wine also does not necessarily mean an unfiltered wine, so it can be perfectly clear and stable. A good wine maker will be able to do this - though I must admit having had to throw away a few bottles at home which were off. 

Sediments in a wine bottle do not have to cause any issues, as long as the person pouring the bottle takes this into account. When I visited a small restaurant in Arcins last year the waiter poured sediments into my glass, and when I complained he just shrugged it off. That's not the way, for sure. 

Anyway, I still have an old menu (2009) from Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir, and there I drank many natural wines. From a cheverny by Thierry Puzelat at 19 euro a bottle to Marcel Lapierre's excellent Morgon at 36 euro.

Answer

Yes, I think so, There’s a worldwide revolution going on in wine, and Paris is its frontline. Over the past three decades, the city’s drinkers have increasingly rejected the old regional hierarchies of French wine dominated by large producers of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne in favor of what have come to be known as natural wines.

Answer

wvdthree, You've received lots of good advice and opinion here. My caution is that IMHO in order to maximize your experiencing current food trends, keep an open mind and do not overthink this, especially before you travel. We were confronted with natural wines at many of our target dining rooms, and I frankly don't remember being served a "stinker". As Steve R wrote, when discussing wine with the som, I state firmly what I don't want: no fizz, no cloud, no funk. Often, maybe most often, they are taken aback by these restrictions. But they magically find lovely wines that pair with the food and meet my request. And remember that if you are served a wine that is counter to your request, you can/should politely explain that it doesn't suit. I don't remember ever having to do this. 

What I do know is that the breadth of and speed of inclusion of natural wines on lists, here as well as abroad, makes it impossible for me to stay abreast of the offerings. Counter to many of my dining buddies, I put myself completely in the hands of the wine authority. So far, it's served me well. It is, in the end, their job and it in the interest of the restaurant to please you.

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Has "natural" wine taken over Paris?

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