Restaurants & Bars 4

Moqueca @ Barraco, Kilburn, London

limster | Sep 20, 201103:32 PM

Moqueca, a Brazilian seafood stew, is made here with coconut milk and palm oil, which according to a chowhound friend of mine, is the Bahia version. Several versions on the menu; I went for one with fish and prawns, both of which were cooked just right -- the fish tender and slippery, the prawns ripping delicately but quickly. The smooth gravy, thick with coconut milk, has flavours that reminds me of sayur lodeh -- a vegetable curry from Malaysia/Singapore/Indonesia. The base of tomatoes and possibly bell peppers and onions blend in seamlessly. Served with rice, but be sure to add toasted manioc flour/farofa from the bottles on the table -- adds a nice toasty, sandy texture and a bit of saltiness, as it absorbs the gravy. Quite a draw.

Other things:

Rissoles camarao are smallish puffs with a savoury and creamy prawn filling. The pastry work here was great -- pipping hot, presumably freshly fried, the short crust pastry crisp on the outside, covered with fine crumbs, the pastry itself flaking and breaking easily.

Frothy caju/cashew fruit juice is made from a frozen puree and is serviceable. A not bad passionfruit mousse, fairly dense and maybe just the faintest bit of powdery feel. The flan in the fridge looked looked good, will have to try next time.

Grateful to a Brazilian pal who pointed out the place to me from ads on Brazilian magazines and newspapers.

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