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Montepulciano/Rome---brief trip report


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Montepulciano/Rome---brief trip report

madoc | Nov 13, 2013 10:55 AM

My wife and I spent 4 days in the Montepulciano region and 4 days in Rome Nov 3-12-----perhaps the most enjoyable of our nearly yearly trips to Italy over the past 25+ years. Restaurants are listed in chronological order.
La Grotta----on outskirts of montepulciano---overall 3 stars out of 4---very good pasta with tartufo bianco,,,osso bucco...coniglio (braised)....excellent vino nobile....very good service...approx 100 euro's.
Piccola Trattoria Guastini--- in nearby Valiano-----four stars--the meal of the trip----warm and welcoming Davide Guastini----fegato bruscheta with caramelized onions and vin santo----like nothing else-----ravioli stuffed with piccione was excellent----coniglio fritti---sounds odd and looked like pieces of fried chicken---delectable----anatra rosti, which was encrusted with fennel--unbelievable----and a wonderful whipped ricotta desert. also had another great vino nobile (banfi)----price was moderate---superior place.
Osteria La Porta (Montichiello))---3+ stars----little place in sweet little hill town near montepulciano---wonderful, warm service----remarkable roast sucling pig with great crispy skin...beef braised in red wine...tender and succulent....nice panforte---another very good vine nobile (carpineto)-----approx 70 euro's.
La Cicconella---- 1-2 stars---sweet people, small restaurant on outskirts of town----otherwise not memorable.


Armando al Pantheon----3+ stars overall---somewhat reserved but nonetheless friendly service----very nice trattoria feel to the place---bruschetta with tartufo nero was superlative-----tonarelli cacio pepe very good but not excellent----sausage roasted over chicoria very nicely done---faroana arrosto with funghi porcini excellent ----vino nobile (Poliziano) very good but not excellent-----price approx 80 euro's.

Perilli---3 stars overall---nice example of roman cuisine---but somewhat quiet on a sunday night----seated in an english-speaking area, thereby losing some atmosphere-----rigatoni carbonara was excellent----abbachio "cacciotora with rosemary white wine, vinegar excellent---stuffed zucchini a bit dull-----price approx 80 euro's----overakk not clealy worth the 30 euro roundtrip taxi fare.

Nino---near piazza d' espagne----lovely old school, slightly upscale place---first time i felt underdressed without a jacket---3+stars overall---delightful staid but efficient, well-executed service----olive neri with limone---sounds simple but wonderful ,flavorful non-salty olives----papardelle with lepre excellent---cinghiale braised tender and delicious----faroana very nicely done----a great villa antinore wine----100 euro's.

Colline Emiliana---a remarkably bad experience----service was abominable to borderline insulting----both primi and secundi orders were incorrect----food was bland and poorly presented---our worst dining expeience in italy in the many years we have visited.

Lunches---we ate less vigorously at lunch---should just mention great lunches at Ba'Ghetto and Trattoria di cav Gino.

Overall, great foodie experiences in Southern Tuscany and Roma.

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