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Restaurants & Bars 1

Modern Pantry, Clerkenwell, London

limster | Apr 5, 200905:29 AM

Beautifully fluffy goat curd pancakes, light and souffle-like, reminding me of pancakes at Miss Mille's in SF or Bette's in Berkeley. If only the souffle at Galvin Bistrot De Luxe were textured that way. There's a substantially goaty flavour, so it's not going to please goat cheese haters, but I loved how that was nicely balanced by quince and vanilla yogurt (with a different type of tang).

Squid ink arancini was ok, a aromatic touch from sesame seeds, a cheesy centre, warm but not gooey (would have preferred a melted cheese within for a better textural contrast). Nutty, bitter leaves of rocket and a sweet and sour pepper jam to cut the crisp of the fried shell.

Sugar cured prawns were excellent, the natural prawn sweetness enhanced gracefully, the plump prawns succulent. They were folded into a thin omelette, very moist on the inside, and touched up with cilantro and a lightly pungent and spicy sambal (nothing like Sedap's nearby, but nevertheless a pleasant touch). A lovely composition, and perhaps my favourite dish there.

Miso marinated onglet for some reason reminds me of certain Cantonese glazes and sauces (not char siu). The meat is fairly tender and has its own beefy personality beneath the miso. I loved the fruity and slightly smokey tomatillo jam against the beef. Cassava and kale are ably prepared, replacements for the more usual potato and spinach.

The panna cotta was suituably wobbly, a nice kick from wasabi, and tang from kalamansi lime (wished there was more of the lime fragrance). Crispy peanuts, fruity kumquats (?) and a sesame tuile as accessories. No clashes, and a fairly amicable match, but nothing out of this world.

Satisfying and pleasant food; very nice, with a few real delights that I'd go back for, but not out of this world.

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