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Minneapolis Pizza Survey


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Restaurants & Bars 44

Minneapolis Pizza Survey

David A. | Oct 8, 2001 07:02 PM

As a recent emigre from the East Coast, I have gone in search of toothsome pizza, but thus far have come up empty-handed. Assuming the monumental pizza of New Haven merits a ten and a mudpie merits a one, here's how they stack up thus far:

Punch Woodfire -- 6
Galooney's -- 5
Campiello -- 5
Cossetta -- 5
Broder's -- 4
Sidneys -- 4
Vescio's -- 2
Broadway -- 2
Pizza Luce -- 1
Fat Lorenzos -- 1
Totinos -- 1

Among East Coast-style pizzerias, Galooney's is closest to having a clue. Their pies exercise appropriate cheese restraint(Cossetta should take note)but they're amiss on several fronts: crust needs more salt and gluten, sauce needs more flavor, cheese should be higher grade. The textures aren't far off, but the taste is bland. Cossetta offers the highest quality cheese, but there's way too much of it, and the crust is without character, a mere cheese-delivery vehicle.

Punch Woodfire makes an adequate Neapolitan pie, but the crust is heavy and prone to sogginess. I'm guessing that the gluten content should be decreased and the temperature of the oven increased. We could see the pizzaiolo stick his head right into the mouth of the oven -- those pizzaiolos in New Haven use ten-foot peels for a reason!

At the bottom of the scale, Pizza Luce, Fat Lorenzos, and Totinos are inedible. I can't fathom the evident popularity of the former.

P.S. I ate at Ristorante Luci for the first time last night. It was thoroughly mediocre. My wife and I had a veal carpaccio pizza (interesting but very salty), bruschetta, sweet potato soup, spaghetti alla carbanara (a safety dish that turned out to be not so safe), and a vegetarian lasagne layered with potato instead of pasta. This follows in the wake of numerous crappy Italian meals (including a $275 heartbreaker at D'Amico Cucina). We're going to stick to Chinese from now on.

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