Just got back from Italy a couple hours ago. Stayed in Castiglione D. Pescaia, a touristy little beach town 15 km from Punta Ala. Didn't have much in the way of mindblowing food, but two restaurants stick out for the whole trip. The first was a seafood restaurant called Il Cantuccio, in a town on the road to Follonica (the town is about 5-10 after the turnoff for Tirli), I apologize for my lack of specifics but I wasn't driving and this was my first time to Italy. FABULOUS seafood, the best I've had. Amazing view of the sunset and the harbor there.
The other was Cagliostro, in Pisa on my last night in Italy. Not the best food of my life, but the best meal of my life for sure. We were the only reservation, the rest of the restaurant was booked by members of Italian Congress, so the maitre'd informed us. Despite the other large, seemingly important party, we were extremely well taken care of. The parmesan souffle with saffron was one of the most well executed dishes I've ever had, great subtlety. All courses were paired with wines by the glass. Our host simply informed us, "Drink as much as you want from each bottle, I charge you accordingly" Had awesome lamb, duck, tallegio agnolotti with almond sauce, a fresh fettucine with pine nuts and mint, and fabulous desserts; a honey semifreddo with almonds and a chocolate souffle, paired with two dessert wines that were perfect. Including the amuse it was 4 courses each. Every dish, the host came out and explained the background of the dish, or the background and information of all the wines. He was knowledgeable, charming, and extremely accomodating. Wine cost came out to under 40 euro, total dinner was 108! Sat out in a back patio on the grass, they burned incense, surrounded by old bohemian ratty Pisan apartments, with a beautiful girl....it was a very very special night, complete with a teeth-gritting taxi ride back to our hotel. Thanks again chowhounds!