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Restaurants & Bars

Metro Club R.I.P.

Carlos D. | Oct 6, 200202:46 PM     2

I have the doleful responsibility to report that Chicago's only allegedly decent German/Austrian restaurant, the Metro Club (3000 blk. N. Lincoln), is no more as of this summer. According to my source, the reason for their closing was that the owners, Pepo (the friendly face behind the operation) and Anni (who usually wore a scowl), were getting on in years and no longer wished to continue the business; neither did their daughter. Perhaps Anni was increasingly unhappy and things came to a head. I can only speculate.

I had the distinct opportunity of dining there 3 times in as many months last year, and I quite enjoyed the food as well as the drink -- especially the astounding Erdinger Weizen (not cloudy or "weiss" like your typical weizen, but clear and crisp like a good lager). They would immediately set you up with a generous plate of salami and rye bread while you waited for your order. The first time we were there we waited about 2 hours for our food, as the co-owner who did a lot of the cooking was stuck overseas -- this was days after 9/11/01. The service did improve on our subsequent visits, and so did the gemütlichkeit. Our final visit caught us without a reservation (a must), but they were happy to accommodate all 8 of us at the bar. We were even treated to a shot of an herbal liqueur much like Jaegermeister. Their Wienerschnitzel, goulash, bread dumplings, Jaegerschnitzel... all top-notch in my book. The veggies were served family-style, including the most incredible roasted baby potatoes.

Maybe a new German restaurant in Chicago will take its place, but I am not holding my breath. Metro Club will be missed.

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