When I can afford it, both time and money-wise, I love to settle in New Orleans for three weeks at a time, relaxing and grazing. It's my favorite solo vacation and it's where I am right now, my first such trip in about four-and-a-half years. I got in last Tuesday afternoon, staying in an apartment in the quiet end of the Quarter. This first week I've hit mostly new places, at least to me. I won't go into depth on every meal but a few highlights need to be mentioned, starting with my first dinner at Tommy's. Really liked this place and it was a classic way to begin the trip. Baked oysters (half Tommys, half Bienvilles) were fantastic, I couldn't decide which I liked better. Black drum Capri was also good, bread pudding just ok.
Wonderful roast beef poor boy at Johnny's for lunch the next day, then a late supper at Rue 127. They were doing a sweetbreads risotto, which was pretty amazing, especially the sweetbreads themselves, which were perfect, maybe the best I've ever had. I was kind of underwhelmed with the rest of the meal however.
Thursday night was dinner at Galatoire's, the only place I know I'll hit a few more times in the coming weeks. Martini, Crabmeat Maisson, Shrimp Remoulade, Turtle Soup, Soft-Shell Crab, all great. My timing was also pretty good: Bill Clinton was dining there that night.
Nursed a hangover the next morning with a big bowl of gumbo at Two Sisters Kitchen: Really potent stuff, easily one of the best gumbos in the city. Dinner at Coquette that night was very good, if not quite as great as the first time I ate there two years ago. Guy's Po-Boys and Hansen's Sno-Bliz for Saturday lunch, and a very late supper at La Boca that night. It was my first time there and I opted for the "skin-on" skirt steak -- which was indeed delicious but ohmygod was it rich. Like some weird steak meuniere or something. Not only could I not finish it, but I think it's still digesting two days later.
For dinner last night I tried Root, which was not bad but not nearly as good as I was hoping for. Picked up some red beans and rice from Matassa's Market for lunch today and am heading to Crescent Pie and Sausage for dinner tonight.
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