I've been thinking about that famous meal Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey had in Paris in 1974 for $4,000 -- and that was real money in those days. As you may recall, Claiborne had won a TV raffle from American Express for a meal for two, price unspecificied. He picked out a special place he knew on the Rive Gauche, and told the chef the sky's the limit. There were 31 courses, which sort of makes a piker of our Laboratorio banquet (even if some of us won't get much past course 4). But what stands out in my memory is that Claiborne and Franey actually had a light lunch that afternoon. Claiborne wrote in his page one piece in The New York Times a few days later that starvation ruins the appetite.