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Boston Area Brookline

Matt Murphy's, Brookline Village, Brookline

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Restaurants & Bars 1

Matt Murphy's, Brookline Village, Brookline

Limster | Aug 4, 2003 12:25 AM

This is the knife and fork version of fish and chips. As many have described here in the past, it's not the same classic crunchy battered fish one eats out of a newspaper cone.

The batter is more of a thin dusting, usually more at home on sole, but this fried cod is so delicate that forks are almost essential to get every moist, clean-tasting flake. The pieces of fish feel firm for a brief instant, then melt away readily.

The fish is sweet and soft, but so are the hand-cut skin-on fries. They aren't soggy, just somewhat neutrally soft, likely from a bit of steaming when the newspaper shell around the dish is sealed for its clever but perhaps unoptimized presentation. Picking out the smaller chippy pieces was worth the effort, they were still crispy.

Nice pickled onion, awesome stick-to-the-spoon thick tartare sauce.

The clovey-tasting chutney-like house-made ketchup again calls for a fork. Small chunks of tomato are interspersed between a thin sauce, both of which aren't easily handled with fries. Fork it up to maximize the experience. A bit more ripe tangy tomatoey flavour to round off the fried richness of the fish and chips might have been better for a more primal satisfaction.

Great powdery and dense Irish soda bread.

Will probably try the Shepard's Pie next.

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