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Matsutake soup at Mori and Providence


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Matsutake soup at Mori and Providence

Porthos | Aug 20, 2008 01:29 AM

I thought it was a bit early for matsutake but I've had 2 matsutake dishes in the past week.

1. Providence. Matsutake soup with scallop quenelle and raw scallops. Documented beautifully by Exilekiss. We supplemented our 5 course tasting with this dish and the salt baked spot prawns. The quenelle was delicious but the scallops poached in the broth stole the show. Barely warmed through, they were perfectly sweet and gentle in texture. My only gripe is that the fried shallots were slightly overpowering...and of course, the fact that there were only 2 thin slices of matsutake. I was informed that this was "mexican matsutake". Maybe this explains the earlier appearance of matsutake?

2. Mori. Matsutake dobinmushi. It came with the nigiri omakase. 4 spears of matsutake in a deliciously pure broth that also contained hamo eel, shrimp, ginko nuts. No disrespect to Cimarusti but Mori's version of matsutake soup was far more fragrant and delicate. It was at least as good as Kiriko's version, possibly better. I'll have to try Kiriko's version again to make that call.

Side note: I had to sit at a table given our party of five. Nigiri was good but sitting at the bar in front of Mori makes a huge difference obviously.

Would be interesting to know if Kiriko is also doing matsutake dobinmushi these days.

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