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Recent Manresa Report, a bit long


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Recent Manresa Report, a bit long

coolblursn | Aug 22, 2008 07:50 AM

I was recently in San Jose for a week and though most of my meals were catered affairs from work, by perusing some chowhound boards, I was able to squeeze in a few very good meals. The most anticipated was the one I had at Manresa. By the end of the week, I had gotten over the ridiculously expensive taxi rates, and begrudgingly took a taxi to the restaurant, though due to an accident, I arrived 45 min late to my 6:30 reservation on a Friday night. I had called the restaurant to let them know, and they assured me that they had my table ready whenever I arrived. I finally got to the restaurant, and they led me to a very nice table with a view of the patio. I was dining by myself and I opted for the chef's dinner/tasting menu, with the cheese course added on, and a half bottle of 2005 Calera Viognier. My meal started with a flight of amuse bouches, five in rapid succession: a red pepper pate de fruit and a black olive madeleine, a lavender mint soda with a kincho melon granita, parmesan churros, courgette sorbet with pistachio vinaigrette, and an Arpege farm egg, gently cooked in the shell, and layered with various creams and foams. Foam is quite big here, as are edible flowers for garnish. The pate de fruit was very nicely flavored, the madeleine a bit understated. The shot glass of soda was nice, and I love any granita. The churros was amazing, basically like a long line of gougere, moist, tender, and almost delicate, so good. The sorbet was lovely, with some citrus foam on top, a good contrast, and the egg was interesting, gathering a bite by cutting through all the layers, but the flavors were very muted.
Then there were four first course offerings, spaced about 10 mins apart: marinated shellfish in a bonito broth and green curry oil, raw and cooked tomatoes from their garden (most of their produce comes from their own garden) with a tuna consomme and steelhead roe, potimarron pumpkin soup with nasturtium ice cream, and a salad called "into the vegetable garden". The shellfish was decent, though the green curry was not pronounced. The scallops were great, sweet and tender, but several bites had grit, which was disappointing. The tomatoes in tuna consomme was very nice, with an avocado mousse that added a well placed unctuous note to the briny and tart dish that popped delightfully with the roe. The pumpkin soup was poured tableside from a little kettle next the ice cream and they both went so well together, the cold creaminess mingling with the warm richness, with a great flavor combination of herbal and savory. The salad was very visually appealing, with young lettuces and greens mixed with edible flowers and gently cooked curls of carrot, radish, and other root vegetables. There was a lemon foam that acted as a dressing and a streak of "soil", browned breadcrumbs. Everything went pretty well together, though it looked better than it tasted, especially when I came across an odd chunk of cooked potato, which seemed heavy and out of place.
Then there were three entree courses: cod and abalone in young garlic bouillon and seaweed persillade, roast squab breast with crushed raspberries and hazelnuts, and roast lamb with eggplant, chanterelles, and anis hyssop. The cod was one of my favorite courses, it was wonderfully cooked, either poached or cooked sous vide, still almost translucent. The abalone was so tender and slightly briny, but the seaweed persillade was revelatory. Absolutely delicious and so ingenius. The only other misstep, other than the grit in the shellfish, was that there were a few scales still on the skin, which did detract from the experience, slightly. The squab was fairly good, if a little tough, but the tart raspberries and roasted hazelnuts went well with the rich meat. The lamb was similarly as good as the cod, a perfect medium rare. The eggplant wasn't terribly great, kind of tough and slimey, but the anis hyssop sauce was amazing, intensely herbal, but still rich.
Then I had the cheese course, which was my favorite course, probably ever. I sampled all six of their cheeses, which came with a date and orange peel jam, sliced apples, marcona almonds, pain de campagne, toasted lavash, and crisps of fruit and nut bread. The cheeses were: Green Hill double cream, Brillat Truffe, Besase de Berger, Bleu du Bocage, Pozo Tomme, and Serra da Estrella. They were various sheep's, goat's, and cow's milk cheeses, and everything but the Pozo Tomme, greatly impressed me. It was good, but overshadowed by the others. I crazily loved the goat's milk Bleu du Bocage, which I never had before, but is now one of my favorite cheeses ever. The Serra da Estrella was a Portugese cheese akin to Epoisse or Camembert, scooped out of the rind, and it was so rich and pungent. The Brillat Truffe was equally wonderful, but the bleu was amazing.
Afterwards, there were four courses of dessert: plum and lime parfait with raspberries and plum, monkey bread with nectarines and Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream, milk chocolate-coffee vacherin with meringue, blackberries and blackberry sorbet, and cinnamon-coffee milk, and ended with another petit four of strawberry pate de fruit and chocolate madeleine. By this time, I was very full from the cheese and a little dazed by the amount of courses, but I pressed on. The parfait was light and creamy, but was a little overpowered by the tartness of the berries, but underneath the sliced plum were little bundles of some kind of granola, which was a nice counterpoint. The monkeybread tasted like the best French toast I've had, with perfectly ripe nectarines and wonderfully flavored ice cream. The vacherin was very good, with little meringues on top that looked like minature marshmallows, with the sorbet cutting through the richness of the chocolate and the milk sauce. The last petit four brought the meal to full circle, looking exactly like the first petit four, and the strawberry pate de fruit was full of fruit, though the madeleine was once again a little bland. The service was quite good, and very knowledgeable, especially the fromagier. Overall, one of the best meals I’ve had, and thanks to everyone for your suggestions.

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