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Malfatti and Ravioli from Lawler's Liquors, Napa


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Malfatti and Ravioli from Lawler's Liquors, Napa

Melanie Wong | Jul 3, 2006 04:26 AM

After finding La Taquiza closed, I headed over to Lawler's Liquors to get some malfatti and ravioli to go. A month ago I'd tried The Depot's version -

The price per dozen is half or even less than The Depot charges. However, the quart container wasn't filled with quite as much sauce. I also got a half loaf of garlic bread.

These were destined for my dinner later at home, but wanting to try them freshly cooked, I popped off the lid in the car to try one of each. The malfatti do have more flavor here, I think. I'll confess that I spotted a pile of dried herbs, maybe bundles of oregano, in the kitchen and that might have influenced me. The color of the malfatti is not as brightly green as The Depot's and lacks the watery, spinach taste. These have a more concentrated, dried herbal flavor and a firmer texture. They might be just a little bit smaller, but not by much.

The ravioli have thicker pasta skins here without the tender delicacy of The Depot's. Also, the filling was more pastey in texture and less complex. Reheated later, the wrapper turned rather doughy.

The red sauce has more oil and less ground meat in it, but has many thick slices of canned mushroom. I liked the flavor better as it seemed richer in tomato flavor without the overly tangy bite and spice of The Depot's. Adding some shavings of well-aged Pecorino Romano at home made it complete.

I'd say that I like the sauce and the malfatti better at Lawler's, but prefer The Depot's ravioli. I also liked the garlic bread, which toasted up nicely in the toaster oven. Considering the difference in price, Lawler's is a stand-out.

Lawler's menu -

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