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Restaurants & Bars 1

Magdalen, Southwark, London

limster | Mar 29, 200807:43 AM

Soft, coarse shreds of skate are dotted with capers, interspersed between the layers of chicory in a reasonable pile on the plate. The richness of creamy/mayonaissey coat on the skate (I would have preferred mine a bit firmer) is cut somewhat by the heavy tang of capers and the crisp bitter chicory. OK on the whole.

A dry sherry (a Manzanilla La Gitana, Bodegas Hidalgo) tasted of pears and walnuts; would have been nice with a blue cheese, but had enough acidity to handle the skate's creamy complexion.

Roe deer was perfectly cooked, great meaty earthy flavour, thick slices draped over a a smooth and very slightly sticky dark sauce (demi-glace and red wine?). Classic accompaniments: salsify, aromatic cubes of celeriac, sweet carrots.

An '03 Rhone - Beaumes-de-Venise, Château Redortier - barnyard and robust fruit and earth behind that. Went well with the venison.

The warm ginger cake was fine, a well made toffee sauce and whipped cream. Basic and comforting, if a tad small.

Overall, a very pleasant experience, but not among the best meals I've had.

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