I was lucky enough to get a chance to eat at Maestro again last weekend thanks to the good offices of my wife's generous employers. The food was as flawless as ever. I voted for the "carpaccio" -- kobe beef wrapped around honey marinated tofu -- as the standout, though my wife split her vote between the Campari sorbet and the litchi panna cotta. But what strikes me most is how genuinely welcoming the atmosphere is for such a proper establishment. It's a rare blend, and one that spoils you for a lot of other places. My wife (reluctantly, believe it or not) does a lot of spare-no-expense corporate eating in New York and our refrain on the phone in the evenings has become fairly set. "So, how was (insert hot restaurant du jour here)? It was good, but not nearly as good as Maestro."