Prompted by Tom Armitage's recent post, I ate last night here at one of my favorite Asian noodle shops in the city. If slurpin' noodles is your thing, this is about as good as it gets -- elegantly simple. The hand-thrown noodles, gook soo, are silkenly lovely, whether with anchovy for zip or the mild chicken. A delicate version of soba noodles is also a treat. Even hounds need an occasional reminder of low-radar joints like this one, on Western at San Marino (near Olympic).