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Lyndell's new North End location

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Restaurants & Bars

Lyndell's new North End location

BarmyFotheringayPhipps | Aug 22, 2009 08:41 PM

Stopped in here for a little post-Umberto snack near the greenway splash fountain. I was hoping only that it would be better than Lulu's, home of the only cupcakes I have ever thrown away. In fact, we didn't get cupcakes, because the bismarcks and the black and white cookie spoke to us instead.

This bismarck was, by some distance, the best example of same I have ever had in my life, and I've had more than my share of bismarcks. The cream seems to be a roughly 60/40 mixture of pastry cream and whipped cream, with substance, flavor and a very strong dairy note; crucially it was not too sweet. The cake was tender, flavorful and perfectly textured. The one complaint would be that I could perhaps have used a touch more jam, but I was intrigued that the jam was cherry instead of the more usual raspberry.

The black and white was the cake-with-frosting style rather than the cookie-with-glaze one associates with NYC delis; as a general rule I prefer the cakey style, with the caveat that I've had a lot of really bad cakey b&ws, particularly ones where the cake is dry, spongy and holey. This was a moist, dense cake. The vanilla frosting was nicely textured but a bit bland, while the chocolate frosting was outstandingly rich and fudgy while again not being too sweet.

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