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Melanie Wong | Mar 15, 200201:36 PM     5

Foiled in our attempts to check out Naan ‘n’ Curry on Wednesday, we headed a block up hill to Sam Lok for some Szechuan fare. Each of our platters of sichuan pickled vegetable salad, dan dan noodles, steamed pork rib with rice flour, and ma po tofu glistened with red chili oil. However, ordered medium spicy, the dishes were not flaming hot, leaving but a warm afterglow.

The pickled veggies had a nice fresh snap to them. The noodles were too mushy for my taste and could have used a bit more juice from the sauce. Not a peanut in sight and the noodles were redolent with szechuan peppercorns leaving behind that numbed palate feeling. The rice powder coating on the pork ribs lent an interesting texture contrast to the finely spiced meat, but, I like the version at Little Sichuan better. Ma po tofu was my favorite dish with silken soft cubes of tofu, ground pork and an unthickened complexly spiced sauce that was so good with steamed white rice.

Lunch for three was $32 with enough leftovers to make the significant other left at home happy.

Sam Lok Restaurant
655 Jackson St.
San Francisco
415-981-8988

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