This restaurant is under new ownership--new cooks, new staff, the works--and it shows. The staff are actually enthusiastic, and my lunch of tofu stew with cod, shrimp and clams (sundubu-jige, $8) was very tasty. An earthenware bowl of silken tofu in a still-bubbling broth containing chunks of fish, bits of clam (some overcooked), no shrimp but some squid, fried egg, scallions, spiced to a (to me) gentle buzz that produced only a few sniffles. I'm sure the heat can be negotiated. Standard side dishes of spinach, sprouts, and kimchee. Wish for more variety, the New York Market at Fresh Pond has me spoiled (thanks hounds). 27-29 Riverside Ave., 781-391-5606, 11:30-2:30 and 5:00-10:30. Lunch specials are M-F. The Boston Ice Cream Factory (thanks chowcat!) is next door.