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Atlantic Canada

Lumiere Bar -- Update


Restaurants & Bars

Lumiere Bar -- Update

cabrales | Dec 1, 2003 01:48 PM

I've liked Lumiere's bar area since my first visit there. A recent visit (total 4-6?) did not disappoint.

I had one of the dishes I tend to order at the bar, "Fusilli col Buco Bolognese and shaved parmagiano reggiano" C$18 (around US$13), as my main course. As background, even though I don't understand Italian cuisine, I tend to like Bolognese-type sauces that are well-executed (sadly, so few are). This dish has appropriately al dente pasta that captures a thick, developed sauce. It's nice. The red by the glass with which this was suggested to be paired was good too (Triennes, Les Aureliens, sp, 1999 VDP du Var C$12).

Chef Feenie has released a book called "Lumiere Light". Apart from inadvertently or not offering a word play on light (the English translation for Lumiere, as in visual light, versus "light" as in less heavy fare or as in tapas-style items), the book (C$35 or so; expensive for a paperback) offers various recipes, including a tripolini recipe that might have some relationship to the recipe for the fusili. I will review the book when I have time.

I also took the opportunity to sample Lumiere's "Menu Decouverte", Foie Gras version, dish at the bar. While the name translated into discovery "menu", this item is really a single dish (C$36, or approx USD$26) with three small compositions involving foie. I enjoyed it, although I found one of the compositions to be average-minus. First, a sauteed foie segment with Muscat reduction -- nice and without overcooking of the foie. Second, torchon with a cognac (I believe not armagnac, although that is possible too)-soaked prune on top. There was a nice bit of brioche toast to accompany the torchon. Third, "boudin blanc" (sausage) with limited foie sensations. This was too heavily herbed, and the foie was not noticeable.

The Menu Decouverte-type dishes are relatively new. While they are interesting, their price-for-quality ratio is slightly higher (but still reasonable, of course) than that of most Lumiere Bar dishes. One could order generally almost 3 regularly-priced Lumiere Bar dishes for the price of the Menu Decouverte item. So diners interested in getting full (not that that is my general objective) should bear that in mind.

I noted that all Canadian wines by the glass previously available have been removed. There was not a single Canadian non-dessert-wine wine by the glass on the Lumiere bar wine list currently (likely the same wine list as Lumiere; the Canadian items have been shifted to Feenie's). That's not a negative, in my book, to clarify.

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