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Restaurants & Bars 14


OnceUponABite | May 23, 2007 12:09 PM

We were impressed with Coi. It’s not often we have a very memorable meal where we felt our taste buds were intrigued by the flavor combination, but at Coi we were! It could’ve easily gone too far and become too much, but in our opinion it was just right amount of culinary inventiveness mixed in with clean intense flavor of each ingredient. Sure, the herby perfume you are suppose to rub on your wrist while you ingest the grapefruit dish is a little kooky, but I can appreciate how the chef thought of all of the senses during the dining experience. Although I have to admit I didn’t like their signature grapefruit dish, as I prefer my fruit not to be salty but just to taste like fruit.

All of the vegetarian preparations were excellent. One perfectly cooked fat asparagus took my breath away. The braised artichoke and carrots, while simple, was delicious. The slow cooked egg was breakfast perfection. Once you poked the yolk open and mingle the golden liquid with the potatoes and the morels, you almost wish they served a slice of toast!

By far my favorite dish was the king salmon. Succulent, perfectly cooked, sitting glistening on top of the saffron broth, that piece of fish was probably one of the best cooked salmon I’ve ever had.

I have to comment on the yuba pappardelle. Being Chinese, and having eaten yuba, or tofu skin often, I was not impressed with Coi’s interpretation. Merely sautéed with some greens and chili, the taste was bland and fell short of my expectations. While I appreciate the exotic nature yuba can present to customers not familiar with the ingredients, calling it parppardelle was just silly, especially since yuba is found in every dimsum restaurant in the bay area.

All three of the dessert courses were perfect. We started with a light vanilla cake that is still hot out of the oven, the delicate crumb paired nicely with the strawberries. The cucumber ice milk, weird sounding nonetheless, was a surprise hit with the chocolate parfait. The refreshing cucumber taste balanced the rich creamy taste of the chocolate.

All in all Coi was a great experience for us. Having eaten in many high end places and forgetting what we ate as soon as the meal is over, we were happy Coi was not like one of those places. Satisfied, impressed, and happily we left Coi.

We will definitely go back again.

Complimentary amuse – a shot of cold soup (veggie? Can’t remember)
Pink grapefruit with ginger, tarragon, black pepper
Scallop and caviar ‘raviolo’ sea urchin foam
Zuckerman’s aspargus with Meyer lemon sabyon
Caramelized endive tart
Braised artichokes and carrots with baby leeks, green cardamom and cilantro
Yuba ‘pappardelle’ with baby fava beans and harissa chili
Poached local wild king salmon with mussel-saffron broth
Slow cooked farm egg with morels and potato
Aged guffanti pecorino with apple slices and rooibos
Warm vanilla cake with strawberries and olive oil gumdrop
Bittersweet chocolate parfait with cucumber ice milk
Complimentary dessert – a shot of ice coffee smoothie

$115 plus 18% service charge included.

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