Restaurants & Bars

[London, Brentford] Pappadums

Harters | Dec 2, 201110:03 AM

My hobby takes me to the National Archives at Kew a couple of times a year. That means that I get to eat at Pappadums a couple of times a year. Which means that, although it’s 200 miles from home, it’s one of the places I eat at more regularly than many of my local places. Transport it to North Cheshire and I’d be a real regular. It has a couple of things going for it. Firstly, it’s dead handy for all of the three hotels in Brentford that I’m likely to stay at. And, more importantly, the food’s pretty good.

A chaat did exactly what it said on the tin. Crisp pastry, onion, soft potato, mealy chickpeas, a real zing from tamarind, softened back down with a drizzle of yogurt. Good starter!

The menu’s mainly north Indian. There are few nods towards the south of the country by way of, say, chicken Chettinad – I’ve tried them in the past and I reckon the chef’s heart just isn’t in cooking them . Better to stick to the north. So I did – by way of saag gosht. A thick unctuous coating of the spinach gravy, well rounded spicing with nothing aggressive on the palate, long cooked tasty lamb. If I had a criticism, it would be that I had to play “hunt the gosht” more that I would have liked. But perhaps I was just ultra greedy. I think I was. One carb just wasn’t enough so I saw off some very nice rice and a crisp tandoori roti.

As always, service was spot on – efficient yet friendly. Unusually for south asian restaurant, in my experience, most of the front of house staff are women. Perhaps that’s another reason why I like it.

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