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Restaurants & Bars 4

Lil' Ole Caboose, Deerfield has original Nathan's fries

s.m. koppelman | Mar 31, 200209:47 PM

I've been down here less than a year. I stopped by the Lil' Ole Caboose on Powerline just south of Hillsboro in Deerfield Beach, which is just south of Boca in the northeastern corner of Broward County. I'd heard and read their White Castle-ish little square burgers were good. And they were.

But the real story as far as I'm concerned was the fries: they sell fries that are dead ringers for the ones at Nathan's in Coney Island as they were twenty-plus years ago. There's been a lot of handwringing here about how the original Coney Island Nathan's prepares food these days just like any other Nathan's franchise, the result being that the fries, though still good, just aren't the same. I had the old Nathan's fries as a kid and I remembered a stronger baked-potato taste or something, which I'm advised came from... well.. I'm not sure I should say.

Anyhow, the Lil' Red Caboose has those fries I hadn't had since I was a kid. By the time I lived in easy striking distance to Coney Island, they'd changed.

It's not just that they serve them in a cardboard bowl with a wooden fork, though the latter helps, since the smell and taste of the wood completes the simulation (well, okay, you're still a few miles from the water, so the air isn't as briny, but still). They're those fries. They're note-perfect renditions of the Nathan's Coney Island fries circa the years when they still had that great fresh-made orangeade.

Now if I could find a place that makes that orangeade..

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