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Restaurants & Bars 1

L'Hedoniste: the find of 2011, but the year is young.

John Talbott | Jan 8, 201108:30 AM

If Moustache was last fall's "knock you over with a feather" place, L'Hedoniste, 14, rue Leopold-Bellan, in the 2nd (Metro: Sentier or Etienne Marcel), 01.40.26.87.33, closed Sundays and Monday, weekday lunch formulas at 18 and 23.50, about 40 E. a la carte, is 2011's.

We were dazzled today by the warm outside/cool inside croquette amuse bouche of foie gras, a sliced ceviche of chinchard (horse mackerel, scad) that came with tiny calls of avacado on small sections of grapefruit, confited duck surrounded by thousand-time-fluffed potato puree and butter with hazelnut-halves, sea scallops in a bed of root veggies with an Asian-inspired sauce, a thin faux-filet on a bed of reduction of parsley with meaty mushrooms on top and what were almost cruller-like fried extruded potato batons and a classic baba au rhum with creme fraiche and most unclassic cooked pineapple slices. All most creative, solid and just plain good. Our bill came to 100 E. Some pictures can be found at John Talbott's Paris.

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