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Lever House Review (Long)

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Restaurants & Bars

Lever House Review (Long)

Nero | Jun 24, 2004 11:15 AM

Went to Lever House last night.
Had an 8:30 reservation. Were seated at 8:50 but snagged a great table (booth facing room).

Atmosphere: OK this place is definitely cool but I thought it would be even cooler. It has the feeling of an airplane terminal that the Jetson's designed...you walk down a long tube/tunnel (like Brasserie did several years ago) and empty out into a rectangular room. Great booths all along the long side walls and lots of cramped tables in the sunken center of the room. On the back wall is an elevated dining room behind a window. I so would not want to sit there; It's like those are the people who didn't quite make it so we look at them behind glass. Feels like a big TV set in a sports bar.

Service: The waitstaff was excellent. Knowledgable, friendly, and attentive.

Menu: No tasting menus, No gimmicky separation of small dishes, tapas, big dishes, sharing plates, green market specials, pages to turn, sections, blah blah...Just an old fashioned straight-forward menu of about a dozen appetizers and entrees.

Wine: Extensive wine list. I was choosing between 2 Sancerre's, one was $90 and the other $120. The waitress recommended the lower priced one, then double checked with the sommelier who also rec'd the same one and said that the more expensive one was overpriced for what it was. This impressed me and we loved the wine.

Food: The food was very very good. We started with an appetizer to share for 3: the lobster tempura (waitress said it was signature). It was tiny (wish she had said that we shouldn't share it for 3), more like 2 jumbo shrimps in a very light tempura batter with tartar sauce...it was delicious but we each got 2 tiny bites

I had the Scallops appetizer, it was underwhelming. The rack of lamb was delicious...great flavor, came with 2 small sweet peppers filled with braised lamb (very nice) and a fresh salad of mint and fava beans. Highly recommend unless you're very hungry.

While most desserts seemed approptiately elegant, I ordered the warm cookies and was really happy I did: It's like pigging out at a great bakery: all warm cookies choco chip, reverse choco chip, oatmeal raisin, 2 brownie triangles, a delicious ice cream sandwich and a small glass of gelato with espresso poured on top at table. I really enjoyed this and would have left hungry had it not been for this over the top dessert.

All in all: this is a great place to check out at least once but I will probably only go back when entertaining clients or guests.

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