Monday (6/6) - We arrived early morning, dropped out bags at our Airbnb (across from Port of Call) & walked to Café Du Monde to start our adventures. We wandered the French Quarter for 3 hours before joining our walking tour. After 5 hours of walking, we were ready for a bite to eat & some drinks. We shared half a muffaletta with a side of red beans & rice & a Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon House. We then walked to the Algiers Ferry & took a round trip ride across the Mississippi. Afterwards we walked around the French Quarter till ready for dinner at Mr. B’s. I ordered 2 beers & they asked for my son’s ID, which he did not have (only 20 years old), so they brought ME the beers & I served him. We shared one order of barbecued shrimp, which were lip-smacking good. Next was Frenchmen Street & we were having a look at the Art Market when the torrential rain began. We decided to call it a night.
Tuesday – We had an early pick-up for our swamp tour, so we had a quick breakfast at EnVie Coffee, breakfast in a go-cup. That was a big cup! One would have been quite enough, neither of us could finish one by ourselves. The swamp tour was great. Lunch was Cochon Butcher. I had the buckboard bacon melt & my son the le pig mac. Mine was better. OMG, so good! We also shared a bacon praline, yummy. Afterwards we had some fun at Mardi Gras World followed by chargrilled oysters at Drago’s. We walked back to the apartment for a little break & then to Preservation Hall, but we missed out on tickets for the show. We went to dinner at The Joint, shared ribs, brisket & mac ‘n cheese (very good barbecue) & discovered that my credit card was missing. Oh no! Realized that I must have left it at Drago’s, so I called immediately &, thank goodness, they’d given it to security. I arranged to pick it up the following day. We headed back to Frenchmen Street, to Snug Harbor. My son was allowed to sit away from the bar, I ordered 2 Abitas & served him once again, no problems. We heard & the Stanton Moore Trio & they had a guest singer, Cyril Neville. Thanks Montuori, they were awesome!
Wednesday – We took the streetcar to Commanders Palace for lunch! We were seated in the Garden Room & treated royally. I started with a vodka martini. We shared Shrimp & Tasso Henican, trio of soups, chicory coffee lacquered quail, Caribbean spiced pork tenderloin, bread pudding soufflé, crème brulee & coffee. The food was very good, but we weren’t wowed. After lunch out waiter, Wendell, took us on a tour. It was a wonderful experience. We headed back to the apartment to change clothes & relax for an hour. Then it was off to the aquarium, after which I retrieved my credit card, then we walked through Waldenberg Park to the Erin Rose Bar for frozen Irish coffee & got back on line at Preservation Hall. We were packed like sardines, but I managed to get the last 2 seats on the floor. I was kind of cramped & uncomfortable, which detracted from my enjoyment a bit, but my son loved it! Went back to the apartment for a bit & then to Dat Dog on Frenchmen Street. Neither of us was very hungry after that huge lunch, but we managed to eat an alligator dog & crawfish dog with fixins. We both liked the alligator better.
Thursday – Breakfast at Surrey’s: we shared shrimp & grits. My son thought it was one of the best meals we ate all week! I see why they get so much love on Chowhound. From there we walked back to Commander’s Palace & met up with our Garden District walking tour. Afterwards we walked Magazine Street for a couple of hours, shared an oyster po’ boy at Domilise’s (thanks Blumie, it was fabulous!) & a cream of coconut snoball with condensed milk at Hansen’s (so good!) We walked to & through Audobon Park, it was beautiful. We took a cab to Jacques Imo's & shared shrimp/alligator sausage cheesecake & a Godzilla crab. My son was so happy, he wanted to come back the next night for dinner. I was not so impressed & no, we did not repeat dinner there. We were tired after all the walking & the heat, so had an early night.
Friday – We started the day at City Park. Beignets were better at Morning Call than at Café Du Monde. We both loved the sculpture garden. Unfortunately, it started to rain torrentially, so we took shelter in the museum gift shop. After a while, we decided to call a cab & go to lunch but, when we got outside, the rain had let up some. So off I went with my umbrella to finish the sculpture garden. I was so happy I didn’t miss it. We walked to Toups for lunch & had the meatery board with a couple of Abitas. Man, that was our favorite meal of the week. We’re still talking about it. We had dessert at Angelo Brucatto’s (we shared the best canolli & a lemon ice too.) Then we took a cab & spent the rest of the afternoon at the WWII Museum. We enjoyed that so much & strolled leisurely through the Pacific but had to hustle through Berlin. Picked up a muffaletta & a couple of bacon pralines at Cochon Butcher for the plane ride home. They were very nice & prepared a sealed ice pack to keep the pralines from turning into a puddle. Then we went to the St. James Cheese Company for a nice wedge of cheese to take home as well. Dinner was at Lily’s Café. The chicken pho with quail eggs was delightful, light & fresh with herbs; more than enough for us to share.
Saturday – We debated where to have our last breakfast; Luke? Back to Surrey’s? We decided to try Cake Café. I had shrimp & grits again (a bit salty, I thought, but good) & my son had catfish & eggs. We walked back to the French Quarter & the tomato festival. I was so glad that we got to see a festival, it was fun! We did a bit of shopping then stopped at Sucre for some macarons & iced tea. Our Airbnb host drove us to the airport.
I brought home several varieties of Zapp’s Chips for my office (co-worker had brought back pralines the previous week.) The spicy crawtaters were the most popular. I also bought a jar of olive salad. I thought it was worth a try; worst case scenario was that it would be confiscated. Surprise, they let me take it!
We had such a great time in your wonderful city! Thank you all for your suggestions on restaurants, music, etc. We actually were able to do almost everything that I’d planned & can’t wait for our next visit.